{ "schema_version": "2.0", "page_type": "crochet_pattern_article", "source_id": null, "slug": "hexagon-african-flower-granny-square", "title": "Hexagon African Flower Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern", "meta_description": "Free hexagon African flower granny square pattern worked in 6 rounds and 4 colors. Full round-by-round instructions, step-by-step detail, gauge and joining tips.", "published_at": "2026-08-23", "updated_at": "2026-08-23", "author": "Nora", "thumbnail_url": "data/images/hexagon-african-flower-granny-square-hero.webp", "meta": { "title": "Hexagon African Flower Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern", "pattern_name": "Hexagon African Flower Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern", "difficulty": "Easy", "time_needed": "1-2 Hours", "rating": null, "made_count": null, "taxonomy": { "category": "Granny Squares", "skill_level": "Advanced Beginner", "yarn_weight": "DK", "tags": [ "granny square", "hexagon", "african flower", "free pattern", "crochet motif", "blanket square", "double crochet", "color change", "stash buster", "3mm hook", "join as you go", "beginner friendly" ] } }, "cards": [ { "order": 1, "card_type": "hero", "code": "hero", "title": "Hexagon African Flower Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "hero-info-1", "label": "Advanced Beginner", "value": "If you can chain, slip stitch and work a double crochet, you can finish this hexagon today", "raw_text": "If you can chain, slip stitch and work a double crochet, you can finish this hexagon today", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "info", "code": "hero-info-2", "label": "Under Two Hours", "value": "Six quick rounds — most crocheters finish one motif in 45–90 minutes", "raw_text": "Six quick rounds — most crocheters finish one motif in 45–90 minutes", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "info", "code": "hero-info-3", "label": "Endless Blanket Motif", "value": "Four colors per hexagon, infinite combinations — the ultimate stash-buster", "raw_text": "Four colors per hexagon, infinite combinations — the ultimate stash-buster", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 2, "card_type": "about", "code": "about", "title": "About", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "about-info-1", "label": "", "value": "This is a six-round hexagon African flower granny square built from double crochet clusters separated by chain-1 spaces, with one single crochet round near the end that encases the round below it and creates the scalloped frame. It begins with a tiny ch-5 ring closed through the back loop of the first chain, then blooms outward in six evenly spaced corners until you have a firm, flat hexagon measuring about 1.58 inches per side. Four colors give it that classic stained-glass African flower glow — the sample runs deep teal through soft periwinkle with a crisp white border. It is perfect for anyone who wants the look of an heirloom motif blanket without wrestling with popcorn or puff stitches.", "raw_text": "This is a six-round hexagon African flower granny square built from double crochet clusters separated by chain-1 spaces, with one single crochet round near the end that encases the round below it and creates the scalloped frame. It begins with a tiny ch-5 ring closed through the back loop of the first chain, then blooms outward in six evenly spaced corners until you have a firm, flat hexagon measuring about 1.58 inches per side. Four colors give it that classic stained-glass African flower glow — the sample runs deep teal through soft periwinkle with a crisp white border. It is perfect for anyone who wants the look of an heirloom motif blanket without wrestling with popcorn or puff stitches.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "info", "code": "about-info-2", "label": "", "value": "The techniques here are refreshingly plain: chain, slip stitch, double crochet, single crochet and chain-1 spaces. The one thing that lifts it above a basic granny is the standing stitch used to start a round — ch-3 counting as a dc on rounds 3, 4 and 6, ch-2 on round 2, and ch-1 before the first sc on round 5 — plus the fasten-off-and-rejoin color change. Note that round 3 does not fasten off: round 4 continues straight on in the same yarn, which is how six rounds only need four colors. There are no decreases and no shaping. Expect roughly 45 to 90 minutes per finished hexagon once you have worked the first one and the rhythm clicks.", "raw_text": "The techniques here are refreshingly plain: chain, slip stitch, double crochet, single crochet and chain-1 spaces. The one thing that lifts it above a basic granny is the standing stitch used to start a round — ch-3 counting as a dc on rounds 3, 4 and 6, ch-2 on round 2, and ch-1 before the first sc on round 5 — plus the fasten-off-and-rejoin color change. Note that round 3 does not fasten off: round 4 continues straight on in the same yarn, which is how six rounds only need four colors. There are no decreases and no shaping. Expect roughly 45 to 90 minutes per finished hexagon once you have worked the first one and the rhythm clicks.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "info", "code": "about-info-3", "label": "", "value": "The finished motif is a crisp little hexagon: about 1.58 inches along each side, 3.74 inches corner to corner on the diagonal, and roughly 3.54 inches from one flat side to the opposite flat side when worked at 3.00 mm. It has real body — dense enough to hold its shape, open enough to drape. Stack fifty of them into a throw, sew seven into a coaster set, or frame three in an embroidery hoop. As a gift, a bundle of hexagons in someone's favorite four colors is impossible to beat.", "raw_text": "The finished motif is a crisp little hexagon: about 1.58 inches along each side, 3.74 inches corner to corner on the diagonal, and roughly 3.54 inches from one flat side to the opposite flat side when worked at 3.00 mm. It has real body — dense enough to hold its shape, open enough to drape. Stack fifty of them into a throw, sew seven into a coaster set, or frame three in an embroidery hoop. As a gift, a bundle of hexagons in someone's favorite four colors is impossible to beat.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 3, "card_type": "why_love", "code": "why-love", "title": "Why You'll Love This Pattern", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "why-love-1", "label": "", "value": "I fell for this one on round three. The first two rounds are almost suspiciously small — a ch-5 ring, then those 2dc-ch1 pairs marching around six times — and you start wondering if it will ever look like anything. Then round three arrives with its 2dc, ch1, 2dc corner clusters and suddenly the hexagon snaps into focus, six clean points, perfectly flat, no blocking required. That moment never gets old for me. I also love how honest this pattern is about color: because you fasten off and rejoin at each color change, every ring of stitches is a separate decision. I have sat with four mini skeins fanned out on the table just rearranging them before committing, and that fifteen minutes of play is half the fun. The 3.00 mm hook keeps everything tight and defined, so the chain-1 spaces read as tiny windows rather than sloppy gaps. And at under two inches per side, a hexagon is small enough to finish in a single sitting — which means you actually get the satisfying done feeling, over and over, instead of staring at a half-finished blanket for six months.", "raw_text": "I fell for this one on round three. The first two rounds are almost suspiciously small — a ch-5 ring, then those 2dc-ch1 pairs marching around six times — and you start wondering if it will ever look like anything. Then round three arrives with its 2dc, ch1, 2dc corner clusters and suddenly the hexagon snaps into focus, six clean points, perfectly flat, no blocking required. That moment never gets old for me. I also love how honest this pattern is about color: because you fasten off and rejoin at each color change, every ring of stitches is a separate decision. I have sat with four mini skeins fanned out on the table just rearranging them before committing, and that fifteen minutes of play is half the fun. The 3.00 mm hook keeps everything tight and defined, so the chain-1 spaces read as tiny windows rather than sloppy gaps. And at under two inches per side, a hexagon is small enough to finish in a single sitting — which means you actually get the satisfying done feeling, over and over, instead of staring at a half-finished blanket for six months.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 4, "card_type": "switch_things_up", "code": "switch-things-up", "title": "Switch Things Up", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "switch-1", "label": "", "value": "The pattern suggests two gorgeous colorways and I would start there: a warm sunset version running coral into orange into yellow with a cream border for that tropical-paradise feel, or a romantic garden version moving soft pink through purple to lavender, finished with a delicate ivory border. Both work because the outer round acts as a unifying frame — keep that final color identical across every hexagon and even wildly mismatched centers will look deliberate. The sample itself proves the point: a gradient of blues from deep teal to soft periwinkle, framed in crisp white. For a moodier take, try charcoal, teal, mustard and off-white; for a nursery, use three tints of the same hue plus white for an ombre effect. Size is set by your tools rather than by the stitch counts — the six rounds are fixed. Drop to a 2.75 mm hook and a finer cotton and the motif shrinks; move up to worsted with a 4.5 mm hook and each hexagon grows to roughly 5 inches, so a throw comes together in far fewer pieces. If you want a smaller motif in the same yarn, stop after round 4: you lose the scalloped white frame but keep a tidy little hexagon that is perfect for garlands, bunting or bag embellishments. Yarn swaps change the personality completely. Scheepjes Catona or Paintbox Cotton DK at 3.00 mm gives crisp, stitch-definition-heavy hexagons ideal for coasters and placemats. Drops Baby Merino softens everything for a pram blanket. A variegated yarn in the flower rounds does a lot of the color work for you — that is exactly how the sample gets its ocean-wave transitions. For seasonal versions: rust, pumpkin, gold and brown for autumn; icy blue, silver, white and pale grey for winter; and a black-framed stained-glass edition where every round is a jewel tone outlined in black.", "raw_text": "The pattern suggests two gorgeous colorways and I would start there: a warm sunset version running coral into orange into yellow with a cream border for that tropical-paradise feel, or a romantic garden version moving soft pink through purple to lavender, finished with a delicate ivory border. Both work because the outer round acts as a unifying frame — keep that final color identical across every hexagon and even wildly mismatched centers will look deliberate. The sample itself proves the point: a gradient of blues from deep teal to soft periwinkle, framed in crisp white. For a moodier take, try charcoal, teal, mustard and off-white; for a nursery, use three tints of the same hue plus white for an ombre effect. Size is set by your tools rather than by the stitch counts — the six rounds are fixed. Drop to a 2.75 mm hook and a finer cotton and the motif shrinks; move up to worsted with a 4.5 mm hook and each hexagon grows to roughly 5 inches, so a throw comes together in far fewer pieces. If you want a smaller motif in the same yarn, stop after round 4: you lose the scalloped white frame but keep a tidy little hexagon that is perfect for garlands, bunting or bag embellishments. Yarn swaps change the personality completely. Scheepjes Catona or Paintbox Cotton DK at 3.00 mm gives crisp, stitch-definition-heavy hexagons ideal for coasters and placemats. Drops Baby Merino softens everything for a pram blanket. A variegated yarn in the flower rounds does a lot of the color work for you — that is exactly how the sample gets its ocean-wave transitions. For seasonal versions: rust, pumpkin, gold and brown for autumn; icy blue, silver, white and pale grey for winter; and a black-framed stained-glass edition where every round is a jewel tone outlined in black.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 5, "card_type": "common_mistakes", "code": "common-mistakes", "title": "Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-1", "label": "Working round 1 into the wrong loop of", "value": "The pattern is specific: after ch-5, insert your hook into the back loop (BL) of the very first chain — the loop sitting behind the V — then slip stitch. Working into the front loop or under both loops leaves a twisted, lumpy ring that pulls the whole center off-square. Turn the chain so the bumpy back side faces you and it becomes obvious which loop to grab.", "raw_text": "The pattern is specific: after ch-5, insert your hook into the back loop (BL) of the very first chain — the loop sitting behind the V — then slip stitch. Working into the front loop or under both loops leaves a twisted, lumpy ring that pulls the whole center off-square. Turn the chain so the bumpy back side faces you and it becomes obvious which loop to grab.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-2", "label": "Counting the ch-3 at the start of a", "value": "That ch-3 counts as the first dc, so the first cluster is ch-3 plus one more dc — not ch-3 plus two. Getting this wrong on round 2 gives you 13 dc instead of 12 and the hexagon starts to ruffle. Slip stitch into the TOP of that ch-3 to close, never into the base.", "raw_text": "That ch-3 counts as the first dc, so the first cluster is ch-3 plus one more dc — not ch-3 plus two. Getting this wrong on round 2 gives you 13 dc instead of 12 and the hexagon starts to ruffle. Slip stitch into the TOP of that ch-3 to close, never into the base.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-3", "label": "Losing the standing stitch at the start", "value": "The pattern starts each new color with a standing stitch — ch-3 counting as a dc on rounds 3, 4 and 6, ch-2 on round 2, ch-1 before the first sc on round 5. Pull the loop up snug before you make those chains, and hold the tail against the ch-space as you work the next stitch over it. If the standing stitch still looks loose, work it a touch tighter than feels natural — it always relaxes once the round is closed.", "raw_text": "The pattern starts each new color with a standing stitch — ch-3 counting as a dc on rounds 3, 4 and 6, ch-2 on round 2, ch-1 before the first sc on round 5. Pull the loop up snug before you make those chains, and hold the tail against the ch-space as you work the next stitch over it. If the standing stitch still looks loose, work it a touch tighter than feels natural — it always relaxes once the round is closed.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-4", "label": "Starting round 4 in the joining stitch", "value": "Round 4 begins with a slip stitch into the next stitch so the ch-3 lands in the ch-space, not on top of the join. Skip that little move and the first 7dc group sits half a stitch out of place, which drags one corner in and makes the hexagon look tilted. The same care applies on round 5 (start in the first dc st) and round 6 (start in the 5th sc st) — count before you hook.", "raw_text": "Round 4 begins with a slip stitch into the next stitch so the ch-3 lands in the ch-space, not on top of the join. Skip that little move and the first 7dc group sits half a stitch out of place, which drags one corner in and makes the hexagon look tilted. The same care applies on round 5 (start in the first dc st) and round 6 (start in the 5th sc st) — count before you hook.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-5", "label": "Skipping the fasten-off at a color", "value": "This pattern fastens off at the end of rounds 2, 4, 5 and 6 on purpose — that clean break is what makes the color rings so sharp. Carrying yarn up leaves a diagonal streak of the previous color showing through the ch-1 spaces. If you truly want to avoid ends, at minimum change color at a corner rather than mid-side so the drag hides inside the cluster.", "raw_text": "This pattern fastens off at the end of rounds 2, 4, 5 and 6 on purpose — that clean break is what makes the color rings so sharp. Carrying yarn up leaves a diagonal streak of the previous color showing through the ch-1 spaces. If you truly want to avoid ends, at minimum change color at a corner rather than mid-side so the drag hides inside the cluster.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-6", "label": "Weaving in ends by running them", "value": "four colors you have around eight tails per hexagon. Weave each one through the backs of two or three stitches in one direction, then reverse and go back through two more in the opposite direction. That change of direction is what locks it. Trim close only after the reversal — never before.", "raw_text": "four colors you have around eight tails per hexagon. Weave each one through the backs of two or three stitches in one direction, then reverse and go back through two more in the opposite direction. That change of direction is what locks it. Trim close only after the reversal — never before.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 6, "card_type": "materials", "code": "materials", "title": "Materials", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [ { "order": 1, "group_code": "group-1", "group_name": "", "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-1", "label": "", "value": "Yarn of your choice- 4 colors", "raw_text": "Yarn of your choice- 4 colors" }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-2", "label": "", "value": "Crochet hook- we are using a 3.00mm hook", "raw_text": "Crochet hook- we are using a 3.00mm hook" }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-3", "label": "", "value": "Darning Needle", "raw_text": "Darning Needle" }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-4", "label": "", "value": "Scissors", "raw_text": "Scissors" } ] } ], "rows": [] }, { "order": 7, "card_type": "abbreviations", "code": "abbreviations", "title": "Abbreviations", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-ch", "label": "ch", "value": "chain stitch", "raw_text": "ch = chain stitch", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "ch", "meaning": "chain stitch" }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-dc", "label": "dc", "value": "double crochet", "raw_text": "dc = double crochet", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "dc", "meaning": "double crochet" }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-sc", "label": "sc", "value": "single crochet", "raw_text": "sc = single crochet", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "sc", "meaning": "single crochet" }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-ch-sp", "label": "ch-sp", "value": "chain space", "raw_text": "ch-sp = chain space", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "ch-sp", "meaning": "chain space" }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-sl-st", "label": "Sl St", "value": "slip stitch for joining for different round.", "raw_text": "Sl St = slip stitch for joining for different round.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "Sl St", "meaning": "slip stitch for joining for different round." }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-st", "label": "st", "value": "stitch", "raw_text": "st = stitch", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "st", "meaning": "stitch" }, { "order": 7, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-bl", "label": "BL", "value": "back loop", "raw_text": "BL = back loop", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "BL", "meaning": "back loop" } ] }, { "order": 8, "card_type": "part", "code": "main-pattern", "title": "Main Pattern", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-1", "label": "Round 1", "value": "ch5, sl st to the first ch.", "raw_text": "Round 1 ch5, sl st to the first ch.", "round_start": 1, "round_end": 1, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "info", "code": "main-pattern-info-1", "label": "Step by step", "value": "Step by step: Start with a knot. ch5. Insert the hook into the BL of the first ch. Then complete a sl st. Round 1 finished.", "raw_text": "Step by step: Start with a knot. ch5. Insert the hook into the BL of the first ch. Then complete a sl st. Round 1 finished.", "round_start": 1, "round_end": 1, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-2", "label": "Round 2", "value": "ch3(count as dc)+dc, ch1, [2dc, ch1] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.", "raw_text": "Round 2 ch3(count as dc)+dc, ch1, [2dc, ch1] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.", "round_start": 2, "round_end": 2, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "info", "code": "main-pattern-info-2", "label": "Step by step", "value": "Step by step: ch2 as a standing st (count as dc). Another dc in the loop, ch1. [2dc, ch1] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off. Round 2 finished.", "raw_text": "Step by step: ch2 as a standing st (count as dc). Another dc in the loop, ch1. [2dc, ch1] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off. Round 2 finished.", "round_start": 2, "round_end": 2, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-3", "label": "Round 3", "value": "New yarn in ch-sp, ch3(count as dc)+dc+ch1+2dc, [2dc+ch1+2dc in next ch-sp] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3.", "raw_text": "Round 3 New yarn in ch-sp, ch3(count as dc)+dc+ch1+2dc, [2dc+ch1+2dc in next ch-sp] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3.", "round_start": 3, "round_end": 3, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "info", "code": "main-pattern-info-3", "label": "Step by step", "value": "Step by step: Join new yarn into any ch-sp. ch3 as a standing st (count as dc). dc+ch1+2dc in the same ch-sp. [2dc+ch1+2dc in the next ch-sp] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3. Round 3 finished. Do not fasten off — round 4 continues in this same yarn.", "raw_text": "Step by step: Join new yarn into any ch-sp. ch3 as a standing st (count as dc). dc+ch1+2dc in the same ch-sp. [2dc+ch1+2dc in the next ch-sp] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3. Round 3 finished. Do not fasten off — round 4 continues in this same yarn.", "round_start": 3, "round_end": 3, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 7, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-4", "label": "Round 4", "value": "ch3(count as dc)+6dc, [7dc in next ch-sp] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.", "raw_text": "Round 4 ch3(count as dc)+6dc, [7dc in next ch-sp] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.", "round_start": 4, "round_end": 4, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 8, "row_type": "info", "code": "main-pattern-info-4", "label": "Step by step", "value": "Step by step: Sl st to the next st, so we can start in the ch-sp. ch3 as a standing st (count as dc). 6dc in this ch-sp, [7dc in the next ch-sp] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off. Round 4 finished.", "raw_text": "Step by step: Sl st to the next st, so we can start in the ch-sp. ch3 as a standing st (count as dc). 6dc in this ch-sp, [7dc in the next ch-sp] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off. Round 4 finished.", "round_start": 4, "round_end": 4, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 9, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-5", "label": "Round 5", "value": "New yarn in first dc st, ch1+sc, 6sc, dc in next gap to encase both the round 4 and round 3, [7sc, encasing dc] repeat 5 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off.", "raw_text": "Round 5 New yarn in first dc st, ch1+sc, 6sc, dc in next gap to encase both the round 4 and round 3, [7sc, encasing dc] repeat 5 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off.", "round_start": 5, "round_end": 5, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 10, "row_type": "info", "code": "main-pattern-info-5", "label": "Step by step", "value": "Step by step: Add new yarn in the first dc st. ch1 as a standing st, sc in the same st. sc in the next 6 sts, dc in the next gap to encase both the round 4 and round 3. [7sc, encasing dc] repeat 5 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off. Round 5 finished.", "raw_text": "Step by step: Add new yarn in the first dc st. ch1 as a standing st, sc in the same st. sc in the next 6 sts, dc in the next gap to encase both the round 4 and round 3. [7sc, encasing dc] repeat 5 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off. Round 5 finished.", "round_start": 5, "round_end": 5, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 11, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-6", "label": "Round 6", "value": "New yarn in the 5th sc st, ch3(count as dc)+ch1+dc, 7dc, [dc+ch1+dc, 7dc] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.", "raw_text": "Round 6 New yarn in the 5th sc st, ch3(count as dc)+ch1+dc, 7dc, [dc+ch1+dc, 7dc] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.", "round_start": 6, "round_end": 6, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 12, "row_type": "info", "code": "main-pattern-info-6", "label": "Step by step", "value": "Step by step: Add new yarn in the 5th sc st. ch3 as a standing st (count as dc). ch1+dc in the same st, dc in the following 7 sts. [dc+ch1+dc in the next st, 7dc] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off. Round 6 finished.", "raw_text": "Step by step: Add new yarn in the 5th sc st. ch3 as a standing st (count as dc). ch1+dc in the same st, dc in the following 7 sts. [dc+ch1+dc in the next st, 7dc] repeat 5 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off. Round 6 finished.", "round_start": 6, "round_end": 6, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 9, "card_type": "important_notes", "code": "important-notes", "title": "Important Notes", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-gauge", "label": "Gauge", "value": "📏 Gauge: 1.58 inches per side. The length of the diagonal is about 3.74 inches. The distance between the two opposite sides is approximately 3.54 inches.", "raw_text": "📏 Gauge: 1.58 inches per side. The length of the diagonal is about 3.74 inches. The distance between the two opposite sides is approximately 3.54 inches.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-colors", "label": "Color combinations", "value": "🎨 Color combination suggestions: create a warm sunset tone with coral, orange and yellow gradients bordered in cream for a tropical paradise feel. Or create a romantic garden version with soft pinks and purples transitioning through lavender, finished with a delicate ivory border.", "raw_text": "🎨 Color combination suggestions: create a warm sunset tone with coral, orange and yellow gradients bordered in cream for a tropical paradise feel. Or create a romantic garden version with soft pinks and purples transitioning through lavender, finished with a delicate ivory border.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-1", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 The sample is worked at 3.00 mm, which is deliberately tighter than most DK yarns call for. That tightness is what keeps the ch-1 spaces looking like tidy windows instead of holes. If your hexagon feels stiff and curls, move to 3.25 mm; if it ruffles at the edges, drop to 2.75 mm.", "raw_text": "💡 The sample is worked at 3.00 mm, which is deliberately tighter than most DK yarns call for. That tightness is what keeps the ch-1 spaces looking like tidy windows instead of holes. If your hexagon feels stiff and curls, move to 3.25 mm; if it ruffles at the edges, drop to 2.75 mm.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-2", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Measure against the pattern's own numbers before you commit to a whole blanket: about 1.58 inches per side, 3.74 inches across the diagonal, and 3.54 inches from flat side to flat side. Make one hexagon, measure all three, and adjust your hook until they line up. Fifty motifs is a lot of work to discover on the wrong gauge.", "raw_text": "💡 Measure against the pattern's own numbers before you commit to a whole blanket: about 1.58 inches per side, 3.74 inches across the diagonal, and 3.54 inches from flat side to flat side. Make one hexagon, measure all three, and adjust your hook until they line up. Fifty motifs is a lot of work to discover on the wrong gauge.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-3", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Drop a stitch marker into each of the six ch-spaces at the end of rounds 2 and 3. It takes ten seconds and completely removes the guesswork of finding those spaces on rounds 3 and 4, when the color has just changed and every cluster looks the same. On rounds 5 and 6, mark the starting stitch instead — the first dc st for round 5, the 5th sc st for round 6.", "raw_text": "💡 Drop a stitch marker into each of the six ch-spaces at the end of rounds 2 and 3. It takes ten seconds and completely removes the guesswork of finding those spaces on rounds 3 and 4, when the color has just changed and every cluster looks the same. On rounds 5 and 6, mark the starting stitch instead — the first dc st for round 5, the 5th sc st for round 6.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-4", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Wind your four colors into small cakes or use mini skeins rather than full balls. Because you fasten off and rejoin at every color change, you will be picking up and putting down colors constantly — small cakes stay untangled and let you audition combinations by simply moving them around on the table.", "raw_text": "💡 Wind your four colors into small cakes or use mini skeins rather than full balls. Because you fasten off and rejoin at every color change, you will be picking up and putting down colors constantly — small cakes stay untangled and let you audition combinations by simply moving them around on the table.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 7, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-5", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Always slip stitch into the TOP of the beginning ch-3, not into the chain-space beside it. Joining low is the single most common cause of a hexagon whose join line spirals visibly across the finished motif.", "raw_text": "💡 Always slip stitch into the TOP of the beginning ch-3, not into the chain-space beside it. Joining low is the single most common cause of a hexagon whose join line spirals visibly across the finished motif.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 8, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-6", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 If you are making a blanket, work the final round in the same color on every hexagon and consider joining as you go on that last round. It saves an enormous amount of sewing and gives you a consistent frame that pulls even the wildest color centers together into one cohesive piece.", "raw_text": "💡 If you are making a blanket, work the final round in the same color on every hexagon and consider joining as you go on that last round. It saves an enormous amount of sewing and gives you a consistent frame that pulls even the wildest color centers together into one cohesive piece.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 10, "card_type": "faq", "code": "faq", "title": "FAQ", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-1", "label": "Why does this pattern fasten off at the end of most rounds?", "value": "Each fasten-off marks a color change, and breaking the yarn gives you a clean, unbroken ring of that color with no carried strand shadowing through the ch-1 spaces. Rounds 2, 4, 5 and 6 all end with a fasten off; round 3 does not, because round 4 carries straight on in the same yarn — that is how six rounds only need four colors. It does mean more ends to weave, but it is what produces the crisp stained-glass African flower look.", "raw_text": "Each fasten-off marks a color change, and breaking the yarn gives you a clean, unbroken ring of that color with no carried strand shadowing through the ch-1 spaces. Rounds 2, 4, 5 and 6 all end with a fasten off; round 3 does not, because round 4 carries straight on in the same yarn — that is how six rounds only need four colors. It does mean more ends to weave, but it is what produces the crisp stained-glass African flower look.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "Why does this pattern fasten off at the end of most rounds?", "answer": "Each fasten-off marks a color change, and breaking the yarn gives you a clean, unbroken ring of that color with no carried strand shadowing through the ch-1 spaces. Rounds 2, 4, 5 and 6 all end with a fasten off; round 3 does not, because round 4 carries straight on in the same yarn — that is how six rounds only need four colors. It does mean more ends to weave, but it is what produces the crisp stained-glass African flower look.", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-2", "label": "How many hexagons do I need for a blanket?", "value": "about 3.54 inches from flat side to flat side, you need roughly 12 across and 14 down for a 40 x 50 inch throw — around 170 motifs, plus half-hexagons if you want straight edges. For a baby blanket at 30 x 36 inches, about 90 hexagons will do it. Make a few extra; you will inevitably want them for the edges.", "raw_text": "about 3.54 inches from flat side to flat side, you need roughly 12 across and 14 down for a 40 x 50 inch throw — around 170 motifs, plus half-hexagons if you want straight edges. For a baby blanket at 30 x 36 inches, about 90 hexagons will do it. Make a few extra; you will inevitably want them for the edges.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "How many hexagons do I need for a blanket?", "answer": "about 3.54 inches from flat side to flat side, you need roughly 12 across and 14 down for a 40 x 50 inch throw — around 170 motifs, plus half-hexagons if you want straight edges. For a baby blanket at 30 x 36 inches, about 90 hexagons will do it. Make a few extra; you will inevitably want them for the edges.", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-3", "label": "Can I use worsted weight instead of the yarn shown?", "value": "Absolutely. Move up to a 4.5 mm or 5.0 mm hook and each hexagon will finish around 5 inches from side to side instead of 3.54. The stitch counts stay exactly the same — only your hook and your finished measurements change, so a blanket comes together in far fewer motifs.", "raw_text": "Absolutely. Move up to a 4.5 mm or 5.0 mm hook and each hexagon will finish around 5 inches from side to side instead of 3.54. The stitch counts stay exactly the same — only your hook and your finished measurements change, so a blanket comes together in far fewer motifs.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "Can I use worsted weight instead of the yarn shown?", "answer": "Absolutely. Move up to a 4.5 mm or 5.0 mm hook and each hexagon will finish around 5 inches from side to side instead of 3.54. The stitch counts stay exactly the same — only your hook and your finished measurements change, so a blanket comes together in far fewer motifs.", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-4", "label": "What is a standing stitch and do I have to use one?", "value": "A standing stitch is a way to begin a new color directly in a stitch or space without a slip-knot join. Here the pattern uses ch-3 as a standing double crochet on rounds 3, 4 and 6, ch-2 on round 2, and ch-1 before the first single crochet on round 5. It is not mandatory — you can join with a slip stitch and then chain up instead — but the standing version leaves a much less visible seam at the start of each color.", "raw_text": "A standing stitch is a way to begin a new color directly in a stitch or space without a slip-knot join. Here the pattern uses ch-3 as a standing double crochet on rounds 3, 4 and 6, ch-2 on round 2, and ch-1 before the first single crochet on round 5. It is not mandatory — you can join with a slip stitch and then chain up instead — but the standing version leaves a much less visible seam at the start of each color.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "What is a standing stitch and do I have to use one?", "answer": "A standing stitch is a way to begin a new color directly in a stitch or space without a slip-knot join. Here the pattern uses ch-3 as a standing double crochet on rounds 3, 4 and 6, ch-2 on round 2, and ch-1 before the first single crochet on round 5. It is not mandatory — you can join with a slip stitch and then chain up instead — but the standing version leaves a much less visible seam at the start of each color.", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-5", "label": "How do I join the hexagons together?", "value": "Whip stitching through the back loops of the final round gives a nearly invisible, flexible seam and is the easiest option for beginners. Alternatively, join as you go on the last round by slip stitching into the adjacent motif's corner spaces as you work, which finishes the blanket with no sewing at all. Either way, use the same color as your outer round.", "raw_text": "Whip stitching through the back loops of the final round gives a nearly invisible, flexible seam and is the easiest option for beginners. Alternatively, join as you go on the last round by slip stitching into the adjacent motif's corner spaces as you work, which finishes the blanket with no sewing at all. Either way, use the same color as your outer round.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "How do I join the hexagons together?", "answer": "Whip stitching through the back loops of the final round gives a nearly invisible, flexible seam and is the easiest option for beginners. Alternatively, join as you go on the last round by slip stitching into the adjacent motif's corner spaces as you work, which finishes the blanket with no sewing at all. Either way, use the same color as your outer round.", "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] } ], "conflicts": [], "validation_warnings": [], "images": [ "data/images/hexagon-african-flower-granny-square-hero.webp", "data/images/hexagon-african-flower-granny-square-step-2.webp", "data/images/hexagon-african-flower-granny-square-step-3.webp" ], "source_url": null, "thumbnail_images": [ { "url": "data/images/hexagon-african-flower-granny-square-hero.webp", "alt": "Hexagon African Flower Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern — photo 1", "is_featured": true } ], "gallery_images": [ { "url": "data/images/hexagon-african-flower-granny-square-hero.webp", "alt": "Hexagon African Flower Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern — photo 1", "is_featured": true }, { "url": "data/images/hexagon-african-flower-granny-square-step-2.webp", "alt": "Hexagon African Flower Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern — photo 2", "is_featured": false }, { "url": "data/images/hexagon-african-flower-granny-square-step-3.webp", "alt": "Hexagon African Flower Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern — photo 3", "is_featured": false } ], "_sanitized_holiday_count": 0 }