{ "schema_version": "2.0", "page_type": "crochet_pattern_article", "source_id": null, "slug": "watermelon-granny-square-pattern", "title": "Watermelon Granny Square Pattern 2 — Free Round-to-Square Crochet Pattern", "meta_description": "Free watermelon granny square crochet pattern with a spiral dtr center, hdc gap rounds and dc-inc corners. Make a 3.5-inch square in under an hour", "published_at": "2026-08-12", "updated_at": "2026-08-12", "author": "Nora", "thumbnail_url": "data/images/watermelon-granny-square-pattern-hero.webp", "meta": { "title": "Watermelon Granny Square Pattern 2 — Free Round-to-Square Crochet Pattern", "pattern_name": "Watermelon Granny Square Pattern 2 — Free Round-to-Square Crochet Pattern", "difficulty": "Intermediate", "time_needed": "1-2 Hours", "rating": 4.7, "made_count": "1.2K", "taxonomy": { "category": "Granny Squares", "skill_level": "Intermediate", "yarn_weight": "DK", "tags": [ "granny square", "watermelon granny square", "free crochet pattern", "dk yarn", "summer crochet", "fruit granny square", "magic ring", "double treble crochet", "back loop crochet", "blanket square", "crochet motif", "intermediate crochet" ] } }, "cards": [ { "order": 1, "card_type": "hero", "code": "hero", "title": "Watermelon Granny Square Pattern 2 — Free Round-to-Square Crochet Pattern", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "hero-info-1", "label": "Intermediate Level", "value": "Comfortable with magic rings, back-loop work and tall stitches like tr and dtr", "raw_text": "Comfortable with magic rings, back-loop work and tall stitches like tr and dtr", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "info", "code": "hero-info-2", "label": "One-Evening Square", "value": "About 1-2 hours from magic ring to the final dc-inc corner", "raw_text": "About 1-2 hours from magic ring to the final dc-inc corner", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "info", "code": "hero-info-3", "label": "Summer Fruit Vibes", "value": "A juicy watermelon slice repeated eight times around one tiny center", "raw_text": "A juicy watermelon slice repeated eight times around one tiny center", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 2, "card_type": "about", "code": "about", "title": "About", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "about-info-1", "label": "", "value": "This pattern turns a single magic ring into a full watermelon-themed granny square, and the clever part is that the fruit shape is built from repetition rather than from picture-crochet or tapestry work. You start with a magic ring and a chain of 5, then work back down the chain in back loops with a graduated 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr before anchoring a dtr into the original ring. Repeat that wedge eight times and a scalloped sunburst appears. It suits crocheters who love watching structure emerge from a small, tidy motif", "raw_text": "This pattern turns a single magic ring into a full watermelon-themed granny square, and the clever part is that the fruit shape is built from repetition rather than from picture-crochet or tapestry work. You start with a magic ring and a chain of 5, then work back down the chain in back loops with a graduated 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr before anchoring a dtr into the original ring. Repeat that wedge eight times and a scalloped sunburst appears. It suits crocheters who love watching structure emerge from a small, tidy motif", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "info", "code": "about-info-2", "label": "", "value": "The techniques here are the fun kind of fiddly: magic ring control, working into the back loop of a chain, a graduated stitch ladder from hdc to dtr, and then finding the three loops that sit around the dtr post to build the next wedge downward. Round 2 works hdc groups into the gaps, round 3 is a plain sc smoothing round, and round 4 turns the circle into a square using dc-inc pairs and ch3 corners on the reverse side. Expect one to two hours, and slightly longer on your very first attempt", "raw_text": "The techniques here are the fun kind of fiddly: magic ring control, working into the back loop of a chain, a graduated stitch ladder from hdc to dtr, and then finding the three loops that sit around the dtr post to build the next wedge downward. Round 2 works hdc groups into the gaps, round 3 is a plain sc smoothing round, and round 4 turns the circle into a square using dc-inc pairs and ch3 corners on the reverse side. Expect one to two hours, and slightly longer on your very first attempt", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "info", "code": "about-info-3", "label": "", "value": "Worked in DK sports weight with a 3.00mm hook, the finished square lands at roughly 3.5 inches by 3.5 inches — small, dense and beautifully flat. With four colors you get the classic watermelon story: seed-dark center, juicy pink flesh, a crisp white rind line and a green outer edge that squares everything off. Individually the squares are lovely coasters or a sweet little handmade card topper, and joined together they make a summery blanket, cushion cover or market bag panel that gets noticed", "raw_text": "Worked in DK sports weight with a 3.00mm hook, the finished square lands at roughly 3.5 inches by 3.5 inches — small, dense and beautifully flat. With four colors you get the classic watermelon story: seed-dark center, juicy pink flesh, a crisp white rind line and a green outer edge that squares everything off. Individually the squares are lovely coasters or a sweet little handmade card topper, and joined together they make a summery blanket, cushion cover or market bag panel that gets noticed", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "info", "code": "about-info-4", "label": "", "value": "", "raw_text": "", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 3, "card_type": "why_love", "code": "why-love", "title": "Why You'll Love This Pattern", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "why-love-1", "label": "", "value": "I fell for this square the moment the first dtr locked into the magic ring and the whole wedge snapped into shape. There is something genuinely satisfying about that stitch ladder — 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr climbing up the back loops of the chain, then the tall dtr planting itself in the center — because you can literally see the fan of a watermelon slice forming under your hook. And then you do it again, and again, eight times, and the rhythm takes over. By repeat four I stopped reading the pattern entirely. The second surprise is the three loops around the dtr post. The first time you spot them you feel like you have been let in on a secret, and after that they are impossible to unsee. I also love how honest the construction is: no floats, no carrying yarn, no tapestry chart to squint at. Each color joins fresh, does its job, and fastens off. The round 4 dc-inc corners with their little ch3 spaces are the moment the circle becomes a square, and that transformation never gets old. It is a small project with a big payoff — the kind you finish and immediately cast on again", "raw_text": "I fell for this square the moment the first dtr locked into the magic ring and the whole wedge snapped into shape. There is something genuinely satisfying about that stitch ladder — 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr climbing up the back loops of the chain, then the tall dtr planting itself in the center — because you can literally see the fan of a watermelon slice forming under your hook. And then you do it again, and again, eight times, and the rhythm takes over. By repeat four I stopped reading the pattern entirely. The second surprise is the three loops around the dtr post. The first time you spot them you feel like you have been let in on a secret, and after that they are impossible to unsee. I also love how honest the construction is: no floats, no carrying yarn, no tapestry chart to squint at. Each color joins fresh, does its job, and fastens off. The round 4 dc-inc corners with their little ch3 spaces are the moment the circle becomes a square, and that transformation never gets old. It is a small project with a big payoff — the kind you finish and immediately cast on again", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 4, "card_type": "switch_things_up", "code": "switch-things-up", "title": "Switch Things Up", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "switch-1", "label": "", "value": "The obvious swap is the palette, and this square rewards playing with it. For a watermelon that reads instantly, try black or deep charcoal for the magic-ring center (the seeds), hot pink or coral for the hdc gap round, crisp white for the sc smoothing round, and a bright leaf green for the final dc-inc round. For a yellow watermelon, replace the pink with a warm butter yellow and keep everything else — it looks like a summer market stall. A dragonfruit version swaps to fuchsia flesh, cream rind and a speckled or tweed outer round. If you want it less literal, run all five rounds in a single ombre colorway like a self-striping DK; you lose the fruit but gain a beautiful sunburst medallion. Size changes are easy because the geometry is repeat-driven. To make a larger square, add another hdc to each group in round 2 — work 4hdc instead of 3hdc between the 2hdc gap increases — and correspondingly stretch round 4 by working 5sc or 6sc across the flat side instead of 4sc. To shrink it, drop to a 2.5mm hook and fingering weight for a delicate 2.5-inch square perfect for jewelry or brooch backing. Yarn substitutions work well with any smooth DK: Paintbox Simply DK and Scheepjes Catona (held as DK weight) both give crisp stitch definition, while a cotton like Ricorumi keeps the square stiff enough for coasters. For themed variations, swap green for orange and pink for cream and you have a pumpkin motif for autumn; red center with white and green gives a poinsettia feel for winter garlands", "raw_text": "The obvious swap is the palette, and this square rewards playing with it. For a watermelon that reads instantly, try black or deep charcoal for the magic-ring center (the seeds), hot pink or coral for the hdc gap round, crisp white for the sc smoothing round, and a bright leaf green for the final dc-inc round. For a yellow watermelon, replace the pink with a warm butter yellow and keep everything else — it looks like a summer market stall. A dragonfruit version swaps to fuchsia flesh, cream rind and a speckled or tweed outer round. If you want it less literal, run all five rounds in a single ombre colorway like a self-striping DK; you lose the fruit but gain a beautiful sunburst medallion. Size changes are easy because the geometry is repeat-driven. To make a larger square, add another hdc to each group in round 2 — work 4hdc instead of 3hdc between the 2hdc gap increases — and correspondingly stretch round 4 by working 5sc or 6sc across the flat side instead of 4sc. To shrink it, drop to a 2.5mm hook and fingering weight for a delicate 2.5-inch square perfect for jewelry or brooch backing. Yarn substitutions work well with any smooth DK: Paintbox Simply DK and Scheepjes Catona (held as DK weight) both give crisp stitch definition, while a cotton like Ricorumi keeps the square stiff enough for coasters. For themed variations, swap green for orange and pink for cream and you have a pumpkin motif for autumn; red center with white and green gives a poinsettia feel for winter garlands", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 5, "card_type": "common_mistakes", "code": "common-mistakes", "title": "Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-1", "label": "Pulling the magic ring closed before all eight dtr stitches are anchored in it", "value": "The original ring has to hold one dtr for every single repeat — eight of them by the end of round 1. If you tighten the ring after the first wedge, there is no room left. Leave the ring loose and slightly open while you work, keep the tail draped over your finger, and only cinch it fully once you have slip stitched to the first hdc and are ready to fasten off", "raw_text": "The original ring has to hold one dtr for every single repeat — eight of them by the end of round 1. If you tighten the ring after the first wedge, there is no room left. Leave the ring loose and slightly open while you work, keep the tail draped over your finger, and only cinch it fully once you have slip stitched to the first hdc and are ready to fasten off", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-2", "label": "Working into both loops of the ch5 instead of the back loop only", "value": "The pattern says BL of next 3 ch for a reason — working back loop only leaves the front loops and the chain bump free, which is what creates the clean ridged edge of each watermelon wedge. If you split the chain or use both loops, the wedges look muddy and the round-2 gaps get harder to find. Turn the chain so the back bumps face you and count sk2 carefully before your first hdc", "raw_text": "The pattern says BL of next 3 ch for a reason — working back loop only leaves the front loops and the chain bump free, which is what creates the clean ridged edge of each watermelon wedge. If you split the chain or use both loops, the wedges look muddy and the round-2 gaps get harder to find. Turn the chain so the back bumps face you and count sk2 carefully before your first hdc", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-3", "label": "Losing the three loops that sit around the dtr post", "value": "After each dtr, three loops sit stacked around the post and you work 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr into them in order, moving downward. Crocheters commonly work into the wrong one or skip the lowest. Slide a stitch marker into the bottom loop before you make the dtr, and always work top-down in the same direction so all eight wedges lean identically", "raw_text": "After each dtr, three loops sit stacked around the post and you work 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr into them in order, moving downward. Crocheters commonly work into the wrong one or skip the lowest. Slide a stitch marker into the bottom loop before you make the dtr, and always work top-down in the same direction so all eight wedges lean identically", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-4", "label": "Miscounting the round 2 repeat and ending up with a lopsided circle", "value": "Round 2 is ch2 plus 1hdc, then 3hdc, then a repeat of 2hdc in next gap and 3hdc worked 7 times. That is eight gap-increases total including the opening one. Count your gaps before you start — there should be exactly eight, one per dtr — and place a marker in each. If you finish with a gap left over you skipped a repeat, and the square will not block flat", "raw_text": "Round 2 is ch2 plus 1hdc, then 3hdc, then a repeat of 2hdc in next gap and 3hdc worked 7 times. That is eight gap-increases total including the opening one. Count your gaps before you start — there should be exactly eight, one per dtr — and place a marker in each. If you finish with a gap left over you skipped a repeat, and the square will not block flat", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-5", "label": "Forgetting to turn for TLO before round 4", "value": "The final round starts with TLO, meaning you turn the work and continue on the other side so the corners sit on the reverse face. Skipping this leaves the dc-inc corners bulging on the wrong side and the square looks inside out compared to the sample. Turn first, then join into the hdc that was worked into a gap so your first corner lands in the right place", "raw_text": "The final round starts with TLO, meaning you turn the work and continue on the other side so the corners sit on the reverse face. Skipping this leaves the dc-inc corners bulging on the wrong side and the square looks inside out compared to the sample. Turn first, then join into the hdc that was worked into a gap so your first corner lands in the right place", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-6", "label": "Treating the corner ch3 as an ordinary chain space and working into it later", "value": "Each corner is dc-inc, 1dc, 1hdc, 4sc, 1hdc, 1dc, dc-inc, then ch3, and that ch3 is the corner turn itself — it is not there to be filled in. Working stitches into it flares the corner and stops the squares from joining cleanly. Keep the ch3 loose but empty, and remember the final repeat omits the last ch3 before the ch1 and 1hdc join back to the first ch3", "raw_text": "Each corner is dc-inc, 1dc, 1hdc, 4sc, 1hdc, 1dc, dc-inc, then ch3, and that ch3 is the corner turn itself — it is not there to be filled in. Working stitches into it flares the corner and stops the squares from joining cleanly. Keep the ch3 loose but empty, and remember the final repeat omits the last ch3 before the ch1 and 1hdc join back to the first ch3", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 7, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-7", "label": "Cutting the yarn tails too short at each fasten off", "value": "There are four separate fasten-offs in this pattern, which means eight tails on a 3.5-inch square. Short tails work loose fast in a dense motif. Leave at least 6 inches every time and weave each tail into stitches of its own color with the darning needle so nothing shows through the pink flesh or white rind", "raw_text": "There are four separate fasten-offs in this pattern, which means eight tails on a 3.5-inch square. Short tails work loose fast in a dense motif. Leave at least 6 inches every time and weave each tail into stitches of its own color with the darning needle so nothing shows through the pink flesh or white rind", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 6, "card_type": "materials", "code": "materials", "title": "Materials", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [ { "order": 1, "group_code": "group-1", "group_name": "", "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-1", "label": "", "value": "Yarn of your choice —4 colors; the sample is made with DK Sports. The finished granny square is about 3.5 inches by 3.5 inches.", "raw_text": "Yarn of your choice —4 colors; the sample is made with DK Sports. The finished granny square is about 3.5 inches by 3.5 inches." }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-2", "label": "", "value": "Crochet hook- we are using a 3.00mm hook", "raw_text": "Crochet hook- we are using a 3.00mm hook" }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-3", "label": "", "value": "Darning Needle", "raw_text": "Darning Needle" }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-4", "label": "", "value": "Scissors", "raw_text": "Scissors" } ] } ], "rows": [] }, { "order": 7, "card_type": "abbreviations", "code": "abbreviations", "title": "Abbreviations", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-ch", "label": "ch", "value": "chain stitch", "raw_text": "ch = chain stitch", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "ch", "meaning": "chain stitch" }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-ch-sp", "label": "ch-sp", "value": "chain space", "raw_text": "ch-sp = chain space", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "ch-sp", "meaning": "chain space" }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-dc", "label": "dc", "value": "double crochet", "raw_text": "dc = double crochet", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "dc", "meaning": "double crochet" }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-sc", "label": "sc", "value": "single crochet", "raw_text": "sc = single crochet", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "sc", "meaning": "single crochet" }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-hdc", "label": "hdc", "value": "half double crochet", "raw_text": "hdc = half double crochet", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "hdc", "meaning": "half double crochet" }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-dtr", "label": "dtr", "value": "double treble crochet", "raw_text": "dtr = double treble crochet", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "dtr", "meaning": "double treble crochet" }, { "order": 7, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-tr", "label": "tr", "value": "treble crochet", "raw_text": "tr = treble crochet", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "tr", "meaning": "treble crochet" }, { "order": 8, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-rep", "label": "rep", "value": "repeat", "raw_text": "rep = repeat", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "rep", "meaning": "repeat" }, { "order": 9, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-st", "label": "st", "value": "stitch", "raw_text": "st = stitch", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "st", "meaning": "stitch" }, { "order": 10, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-slst-/-sl-st", "label": "slst / sl st", "value": "slip stitch for joining different rounds", "raw_text": "slst / sl st = slip stitch for joining different rounds", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "slst / sl st", "meaning": "slip stitch for joining different rounds" }, { "order": 11, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-sk", "label": "sk", "value": "skip", "raw_text": "sk = skip", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "sk", "meaning": "skip" }, { "order": 12, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-inc", "label": "inc", "value": "increase", "raw_text": "inc = increase", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "inc", "meaning": "increase" }, { "order": 13, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-yo", "label": "yo", "value": "yarn over", "raw_text": "yo = yarn over", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "yo", "meaning": "yarn over" }, { "order": 14, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-tlo", "label": "TLO", "value": "Third loop only", "raw_text": "TLO = Third loop only", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "TLO", "meaning": "Third loop only" } ] }, { "order": 8, "card_type": "part", "code": "main-pattern", "title": "Main Pattern", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-1", "label": "Round 1", "value": "Red Flesh Magic ring, ch5. Return, sk2. BL of next 3 ch: 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr. **1dtr in the original ring. There are 3 loops(shown by arrows) positioned around the dtr. 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr in order in 3 loops downward** rep 7 times. sl st to the first hdc, fasten off.", "raw_text": "Round 1- Red Flesh Magic ring, ch5. Return, sk2. BL of next 3 ch: 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr. **1dtr in the original ring. There are 3 loops(shown by arrows) positioned around the dtr. 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr in order in 3 loops downward** rep 7 times. sl st to the first hdc, fasten off.", "round_start": 1, "round_end": 1, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-2", "label": "Round 2", "value": "White Pith Layer Join new yarn to the right gap of dtr. ch2(count as 1hdc)+1hdc, 3hdc. *2hdc in next gap, 3hdc*rep 7 times, sl st to the true hdc after first ch2, fasten off.", "raw_text": "Round 2- White Pith Layer Join new yarn to the right gap of dtr. ch2(count as 1hdc)+1hdc, 3hdc. *2hdc in next gap, 3hdc*rep 7 times, sl st to the true hdc after first ch2, fasten off.", "round_start": 2, "round_end": 2, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-3", "label": "Round 3", "value": "Green Rind Join new yarn to any st, ch1+1sc, sc in remaining sts, sl st to the first sc, fasten off.", "raw_text": "Round 3- Green Rind Join new yarn to any st, ch1+1sc, sc in remaining sts, sl st to the first sc, fasten off.", "round_start": 3, "round_end": 3, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-4", "label": "Round 4", "value": "Turn it into a Square TLO. Join new yarn to the st in a hdc that was worked in the gap. ch3 as a standing st(count as 1dc)+1dc to form a dc-inc. 1dc, 1hdc, 4sc, 1hdc, 1dc, dc-inc, ch3.", "raw_text": "Round 4- Turn it into a Square TLO. Join new yarn to the st in a hdc that was worked in the gap. ch3 as a standing st(count as 1dc)+1dc to form a dc-inc. 1dc, 1hdc, 4sc, 1hdc, 1dc, dc-inc, ch3.", "round_start": 4, "round_end": 4, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "info", "code": "main-pattern-info-1", "label": "Info", "value": "*dc-inc, 1dc, 1hdc, 4sc, 1hdc, 1dc, dc-inc, ch3* rep 3 times omitting the final ch3. ch1, 1hdc connects back to the first ch3.", "raw_text": "*dc-inc, 1dc, 1hdc, 4sc, 1hdc, 1dc, dc-inc, ch3* rep 3 times omitting the final ch3. ch1, 1hdc connects back to the first ch3.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-5", "label": "Round 5", "value": "ch3 as a standing st(count as dc)+1dc. (2dc+ch3+2dc) in remaining corners, dc in remaining sts. 2dc in the start corner, ch3, sl st to the true dc after the first ch3, fasten off.", "raw_text": "Round 5 ch3 as a standing st(count as dc)+1dc. (2dc+ch3+2dc) in remaining corners, dc in remaining sts. 2dc in the start corner, ch3, sl st to the true dc after the first ch3, fasten off.", "round_start": 5, "round_end": 5, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 9, "card_type": "important_notes", "code": "important-notes", "title": "Important Notes", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-1", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Use a 3.00mm hook with DK sports weight as written for the 3.5-inch finished size. If your square comes out closer to 4 inches, go down to 2.75mm — with a motif this small, a half-millimeter changes the whole panel when you join twenty of them together", "raw_text": "💡 Use a 3.00mm hook with DK sports weight as written for the 3.5-inch finished size. If your square comes out closer to 4 inches, go down to 2.75mm — with a motif this small, a half-millimeter changes the whole panel when you join twenty of them together", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-2", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Place a stitch marker in your very first hdc of round 1. With eight identical wedges and a slip stitch join at the end, it is startlingly easy to lose count around repeat five, and the marker gives you an instant reference point", "raw_text": "💡 Place a stitch marker in your very first hdc of round 1. With eight identical wedges and a slip stitch join at the end, it is startlingly easy to lose count around repeat five, and the marker gives you an instant reference point", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-3", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Wind all four colors into small separate balls or bobbins before you start. Every round in this pattern joins new yarn and fastens off, so you are never carrying strands — but you will be picking colors up and putting them down constantly, and untangled bobbins make it painless", "raw_text": "💡 Wind all four colors into small separate balls or bobbins before you start. Every round in this pattern joins new yarn and fastens off, so you are never carrying strands — but you will be picking colors up and putting them down constantly, and untangled bobbins make it painless", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-4", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Keep the magic ring tail long, around 8 inches. You will use it to cinch the ring after all eight dtr stitches are in, and a generous tail gives you enough grip to close it evenly without distorting the center seeds", "raw_text": "💡 Keep the magic ring tail long, around 8 inches. You will use it to cinch the ring after all eight dtr stitches are in, and a generous tail gives you enough grip to close it evenly without distorting the center seeds", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-5", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Block each square before joining. Pin it to 3.5 by 3.5 inches, spray lightly with water and let it dry fully — the dc-inc corners and the ch3 corner spaces settle into sharp right angles, which is what makes a joined blanket look professional instead of wobbly", "raw_text": "💡 Block each square before joining. Pin it to 3.5 by 3.5 inches, spray lightly with water and let it dry fully — the dc-inc corners and the ch3 corner spaces settle into sharp right angles, which is what makes a joined blanket look professional instead of wobbly", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-6", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 If you are making a set, work all your round 1 centers first, then all your round 2s, and so on. Batching by round means you only join and fasten off each color once per session, and your tension stays far more consistent across the whole batch", "raw_text": "💡 If you are making a set, work all your round 1 centers first, then all your round 2s, and so on. Batching by round means you only join and fasten off each color once per session, and your tension stays far more consistent across the whole batch", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 7, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-7", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Count your stitches at the end of round 3. That plain sc round is the last chance to catch an error before the corners go on — if the sc count is not evenly divisible around the eight wedges, fix it there rather than trying to fudge the dc-inc placements in round 4", "raw_text": "💡 Count your stitches at the end of round 3. That plain sc round is the last chance to catch an error before the corners go on — if the sc count is not evenly divisible around the eight wedges, fix it there rather than trying to fudge the dc-inc placements in round 4", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 10, "card_type": "faq", "code": "faq", "title": "FAQ", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-1", "label": "What does dtr mean in this pattern and how do I work it?", "value": "A dtr is a double treble crochet — you yarn over three times before inserting your hook, then pull through two loops four times. In this pattern every dtr goes back into the original magic ring, which is what anchors each of the eight watermelon wedges to the center", "raw_text": "A dtr is a double treble crochet — you yarn over three times before inserting your hook, then pull through two loops four times. In this pattern every dtr goes back into the original magic ring, which is what anchors each of the eight watermelon wedges to the center", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "What does dtr mean in this pattern and how do I work it?", "answer": "A dtr is a double treble crochet — you yarn over three times before inserting your hook, then pull through two loops four times. In this pattern every dtr goes back into the original magic ring, which is what anchors each of the eight watermelon wedges to the center", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-2", "label": "Where exactly are the three loops around the dtr?", "value": "Once the dtr is complete, look at the post of the stitch you just made — three horizontal loops sit stacked around it, and the arrows in the source diagram point to them. You work 1hdc into the top loop, 1dc into the middle and 1tr into the bottom, moving downward each time", "raw_text": "Once the dtr is complete, look at the post of the stitch you just made — three horizontal loops sit stacked around it, and the arrows in the source diagram point to them. You work 1hdc into the top loop, 1dc into the middle and 1tr into the bottom, moving downward each time", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "Where exactly are the three loops around the dtr?", "answer": "Once the dtr is complete, look at the post of the stitch you just made — three horizontal loops sit stacked around it, and the arrows in the source diagram point to them. You work 1hdc into the top loop, 1dc into the middle and 1tr into the bottom, moving downward each time", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-3", "label": "Can I make this square bigger for a blanket?", "value": "Yes — the easiest way is to add one extra hdc to each group in round 2, working 4hdc instead of 3hdc between the gap increases, then widen the flat side of round 4 to 5sc or 6sc. Alternatively keep the pattern as written and use worsted yarn with a 4.00mm hook for a roughly 4.5-inch square", "raw_text": "Yes — the easiest way is to add one extra hdc to each group in round 2, working 4hdc instead of 3hdc between the gap increases, then widen the flat side of round 4 to 5sc or 6sc. Alternatively keep the pattern as written and use worsted yarn with a 4.00mm hook for a roughly 4.5-inch square", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "Can I make this square bigger for a blanket?", "answer": "Yes — the easiest way is to add one extra hdc to each group in round 2, working 4hdc instead of 3hdc between the gap increases, then widen the flat side of round 4 to 5sc or 6sc. Alternatively keep the pattern as written and use worsted yarn with a 4.00mm hook for a roughly 4.5-inch square", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-4", "label": "How much yarn does one square use?", "value": "Very little — a single 3.5-inch square in DK uses well under 10 grams total across all four colors, so scrap yarn and mini skeins are ideal. A 50g ball of the main pink will comfortably carry you through twenty or more squares", "raw_text": "Very little — a single 3.5-inch square in DK uses well under 10 grams total across all four colors, so scrap yarn and mini skeins are ideal. A 50g ball of the main pink will comfortably carry you through twenty or more squares", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "How much yarn does one square use?", "answer": "Very little — a single 3.5-inch square in DK uses well under 10 grams total across all four colors, so scrap yarn and mini skeins are ideal. A 50g ball of the main pink will comfortably carry you through twenty or more squares", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-5", "label": "Why does my square look like a circle instead of a square?", "value": "The motif genuinely is a circle until round 4 — the dc-inc corners and ch3 corner spaces are what pull it into a square. If it still looks round after round 4, check that you turned for TLO and that you worked all four corner repeats, since it is easy to stop after three", "raw_text": "The motif genuinely is a circle until round 4 — the dc-inc corners and ch3 corner spaces are what pull it into a square. If it still looks round after round 4, check that you turned for TLO and that you worked all four corner repeats, since it is easy to stop after three", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "Why does my square look like a circle instead of a square?", "answer": "The motif genuinely is a circle until round 4 — the dc-inc corners and ch3 corner spaces are what pull it into a square. If it still looks round after round 4, check that you turned for TLO and that you worked all four corner repeats, since it is easy to stop after three", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-6", "label": "Do I have to fasten off after every round?", "value": "The pattern is written that way because each round is a different color and every join starts in a specific spot, such as the right gap of a dtr. If you are working a single-color version you can carry the yarn and slip stitch to the next starting point instead, which saves a lot of weaving in", "raw_text": "The pattern is written that way because each round is a different color and every join starts in a specific spot, such as the right gap of a dtr. If you are working a single-color version you can carry the yarn and slip stitch to the next starting point instead, which saves a lot of weaving in", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "Do I have to fasten off after every round?", "answer": "The pattern is written that way because each round is a different color and every join starts in a specific spot, such as the right gap of a dtr. If you are working a single-color version you can carry the yarn and slip stitch to the next starting point instead, which saves a lot of weaving in", "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] } ], "conflicts": [], "validation_warnings": [], "images": [ "data/images/watermelon-granny-square-pattern-hero.webp", "data/images/watermelon-granny-square-pattern-step-2.webp", "data/images/watermelon-granny-square-pattern-step-3.webp", "data/images/watermelon-granny-square-pattern-step-4.webp" ], "source_url": null, "thumbnail_images": [ { "url": "data/images/watermelon-granny-square-pattern-hero.webp", "alt": "Watermelon Granny Square Pattern 2 — Free Round-to-Square Crochet Pattern — photo 1", "is_featured": true } ], "gallery_images": [ { "url": "data/images/watermelon-granny-square-pattern-hero.webp", "alt": "Watermelon Granny Square Pattern 2 — Free Round-to-Square Crochet Pattern — photo 1", "is_featured": true }, { "url": "data/images/watermelon-granny-square-pattern-step-2.webp", "alt": "Watermelon Granny Square Pattern 2 — Free Round-to-Square Crochet Pattern — photo 2", "is_featured": false }, { "url": "data/images/watermelon-granny-square-pattern-step-3.webp", "alt": "Watermelon Granny Square Pattern 2 — Free Round-to-Square Crochet Pattern — photo 3", "is_featured": false }, { "url": "data/images/watermelon-granny-square-pattern-step-4.webp", "alt": "Watermelon Granny Square Pattern 2 — Free Round-to-Square Crochet Pattern — photo 4", "is_featured": false } ], "_sanitized_holiday_count": 0 }